Spring 1979
The angry mob of men carrying the picture of a funny looking elder is everywhere on television. This is my first memory of Iran. The elder with his penetrating eyes and long white beard appears as a new messiah for some, the power to the people, sick and tired of inequalities and abuse in their own country. The same penetrating eyes and long white beard became the symbol of evil for others. After all, his loyal vassals did attack a US embassy and burn the US flag.
The story drew immediate reactions from the champion of the free world – and so US sanctions began, slowly crippling access to oil, financing, technology, with an undeniable social impact. Slowly the curtain went down, on one pillar of Middle East history: Persia.
Spring 2015
Some 35 years later, in the middle of the celebration of the new year, Iran is back in the media spotlight and I am preparing for my first trip to Persia.
What is to be expected of a country that spent the last 35 years in forced isolation? Clearly a lot. A highly complex mix of feelings and thoughts are rushing through my mind. As a business person, the feeling is definitely one of curiosity.
The end of this March could be a historic moment for the world, for the western world. It would most definitely represent the very first step towards reintegration. What could the timeline be? How far will sanctions be eased? When, realistically, will we see the first sign of economical changes? How difficult or easy would it be to get a slice of this market of 78 million people, hungry not only to get a taste of the west, but also to fulfil more primary needs such as food, pharmaceuticals or even, more prosaically, spare parts for the aviation industry.
How open or difficult will the local business communities be about in flow of foreigners and foreign direct investment? What is the most pressing pain to alleviate or immediate gain to create? How can one truly participate in that journey of change. Or is it simply too late?
And then, of course, there is the question of oil. Will Iran reclaim its birth right at the top of the food chain when it comes to black gold? How will neighbouring and secular rival Saudi Arabia react? What will happen to the current delicate energetic balance of the world?
A lot to observe and to think about while on the ground. As a writer, the feeling is of true excitement, pure bliss – the promise of eternal wonders in what is home to one of the richest cultural and architectural heritages in the world.
Thinking about the layers and layers of meaning and nuances yet to unlock sends shivers down my spine. From a social standpoint, I am wondering what to expect. Will I find a fragmented society with a before and after the revolution, or a tighter community?
I want to sense the reality of youth in Iran – observe, catch glimpses of hopes and dreams of a potential future for the country. I want to learn their story.
As a woman, a certain apprehension prevails. When I think of Iran, I see hijabs and Fatimah, a role model in struggle and suffering. However, when I think of Iranian women, I also see my friend Katayon’s smile. An Iranian-born, US educated, back-to-Iran 30-something. Katayon embodies Persian beauty.
She explained to me the dos and don’ts for foreign women in her country. Everything went – nail polish never to be red, clothing needed to be unrevealing and covering shoulder, neck and ankles, head scarf from dawn to dusk. Behaviour should be demure yet firm. Gracefully hold your hands on your knees in meetings.
She also mentioned the underlying respect for women in Persian culture, and the curiosity about foreigners. Authenticity is key in connecting she says. Forget prejudice, be real.
A lot to take on and act on. So, here I am, the night before, all packed, excited and slightly scared. I am going to dream about the fruit basket, the ultimate sign of hospitality, changing times in Iran and the flowers of Farvardin – the spring month of the Iranian calendar. See you on the other side.